The Declension of the Cherry, widely discussed as a fruit in L’Assaggio 89, has a long-standing tradition in brandies and liqueurs wherever the tree is cultivated. The powerful and complex aroma of this drupe is enhanced by the alcoholic base, giving rise to truly intriguing beverages.
According to tradition, we owe the introduction of the cherry tree to Italy to Lucullus. It was 64 BC when the Roman general brought it back from Asia Minor, after one of his campaigns, specifically from the city of Cerasus. From this toponym comes the very name of the fruit which today, in common language, identifies a much broader and more diverse botanical universe.
The term “cherry” actually refers to two plant species and an infinity of varieties, producing fruits that differ greatly in shape, color, flavor, aroma, and ripening period.
All cherries are technically drupes, or stone fruits, but their characteristics can vary considerably. The weight of a single fruit ranges between 2.5 and 8 grams. Their color can span from creamy white to the brightest or darkest red, almost black. The shape can range from near-perfect roundness to more elongated and elliptical structures.
The flavor spectrum is equally wide: some varieties offer fresh and sweet notes, others are more tart or watery. The aromatic intensity also varies, from very rich profiles to more neutral expressions, yet still capable of providing immediate pleasure to the palate.
Cherries do not ripen all at once. Their harvest season runs from May to August, depending on cultivars and growing regions. During this time, activities concentrate not only on fresh consumption but also on artisanal and industrial processing.
Behind the fragrance of a cherry lies an entire architecture of volatile compounds. These are light and unstable molecules, yet decisive in defining the fruit’s sensory identity. Their combination creates a layered olfactory profile that varies according to variety, ripening stage, and even processing method.
Esters dominate the aromatic scene with their fruity and floral notes. Among the most representative, ethyl acetate gives a scent of fresh fruit, while ethyl butanoate and ethyl hexanoate evoke ripe fruit with exotic nuances. Methyl-2-butanoate and methyl hexanoate also contribute with round sensations reminiscent of summer and tropical fruits.
Alongside esters, aldehydes add a greener, herbaceous dimension, sometimes with almond-like accents. Hexanal, for instance, brings out fresh and vegetal notes, while benzaldehyde, especially present in sour cherries and marasca cherries, offers the classic almond and marzipan aroma. Furfurals, instead, provide a warm note, reminiscent of toasted bread and vanilla.
Volatile alcohols reinforce the bouquet’s freshness. 1-hexanol contributes herbaceous nuances, while 1-pentanol introduces delicate floral hints. Phenylethanol, known for its rose and honey scent, completes the palette.
Further enriching the cherry’s layered aroma are ketones, such as β-ionone, evoking violet and red fruits, and damascenone, known for its intensely floral profile. Terpenes, another key aromatic group, deliver spicy, balsamic, and floral tones. Linalool, geraniol, and α-terpineol are responsible for notes ranging from lavender to citrus, white flowers to resin.
There are also more discreet but incisive contributors, such as sulfur compounds. Though present only in traces, they influence spicy and toasted nuances in a subtle yet perceptible way, as in dimethyl disulfide. Finally, lactones enrich the sweet and creamy component of the aroma: γ-decalactone suggests peach and apricot, while γ-nonalactone recalls coconut and vanilla.
The differences among cherry varieties are expressed precisely through the varying concentrations of these molecules. Sweet cherries (Prunus avium) show higher levels of esters and terpenes, lending a more floral character. Sour cherries (Prunus cerasus) exhibit a profile richer in aldehydes and benzaldehyde, with predominant almond and ripe fruit notes.
Marasca cherries, used in maraschino production, stand out for their intense aroma, due to high amounts of benzaldehyde and terpenes. Visciole, finally, sit halfway between sweet and sour cherries, with a balance of fresh and almond-like notes, where furfural and phenylethanol play important roles.
The production of cherry brandy is a process requiring technical rigor and sensory sensitivity. The first crucial step is the mashing process, for which a system to remove pits is needed. However, not all pits are discarded: 5% must be crushed and reintroduced into the fermenting mash to enrich it with aromatic precursors.
Cherry mash is naturally rich in sugars, ranging from 8% to 16%, allowing fermentations that develop alcohol content between 6.5% and 10%. Furthermore, its acidic composition ensures good microbiological stability: the pH, thanks to naturally occurring malic, succinic, and citric acids, hovers around 3.2 and generally requires no external correction.
Distillation represents a delicate and crucial moment. It must be carried out slowly and precisely, to preserve and concentrate the fine and distinctive aroma of cherries. Only through careful distillation can one obtain a brandy that is truly expressive and respectful of its raw material.
Once obtained, the brandy must be left to mature. Ideal refinement occurs in glass for ten to twelve months, with at least two following the reduction of alcohol content. During this period, the distillate stabilizes, gains roundness, and develops a seductive olfactory profile.
Interestingly, this fragrance, so highly prized, tends to deteriorate if aged in wood. By contrast, it retains its integrity when stored in bottles, where it continues to express itself clearly and consistently.
The tasting moment deserves special attention. Served at about 5°C, cherry brandy reveals all its delicacy and appeal. It is a drink that elegantly accompanies any afternoon or evening occasion, offering a refined and pleasant experience.
Particularly suitable as a digestif, especially on summer days, it also finds use in cuisine. Among the classic applications is fondue preparation, where it acts as a flavoring agent to enrich and personalize the recipe with a fruity, suave note.
The production of cherry liqueurs is a practice combining artisanal tradition and technological innovation. Behind every bottle of maraschino, ratafià, or cherry brandy, lies a process aimed at preserving and enhancing the delicate, volatile aroma of one of summer’s most beloved fruits.
It all begins with raw material selection. Cherries for liqueurs must be fully ripe, sugar-rich, and intensely aromatic. In some cases, specific varieties are used, such as marasca for maraschino or sour cherries for vișinată. Once harvested, cherries may be processed fresh or frozen, depending on production needs.
The first technological phase is infusion. Whole or pitted cherries are left to macerate in neutral alcohol. This process, lasting from a few days to several weeks, allows the extraction of aromatic compounds, natural pigments, and, if present, almond notes from the pits.
After infusion, separation is performed, followed by alcoholic and sugar standardization, bringing the liqueur to a sugar content between 10% and 35% and alcohol richness between 25% and 35% vol.
Some producers also adopt controlled flavoring techniques, using natural extracts or complementary infusions (such as spices or herbs). At the final stage, a brief maturation in steel or glass may be provided to stabilize the product before bottling.
Image source: DonnaD
Luigi Odello
President, Centro Studi Assaggiatori - Academic Secretary, IASA
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